All the Fjells in Norway

It’s possible to hear the low, rhythmic rumble permeating the city at any point during the day and not unusual to see a young drummer and their mentor as they stand tucked in amongst the old white houses of Bergen. Called Buekorps, these neighborhood youth organizations are particular to Norway’s western city of Bergen and started in the 1850’s by the youth themselves. Most active during the spring and summer, and especially on 17 May, Norwegian Constitution Day, they can be heard practicing. Up until recently, the bataljoner was reserved for boys. Norway, much like other parts of Scandinavia, has the well-deserved reputation of cultivating the most gender equal societies in the world. But even Norway isn’t entirely free of a history steeped in beautiful, yet unequal, traditions. From what relatives have told me, in addition to the boys' groups, there are now drumming clubs for girls who wish to be a part of something that Bergen holds so special. The first girl buekorps formed in 1991, causing a bit of controversy, though the girl and mixed gender battalions now appear to be widely accepted. I spent a few weeks in Bergen this year, including 17 May. My Aunt, who lives nestled in one of the hills surrounding the city, pointed out the buekorps whenever we saw or heard them. She is a life-long resident of the city and is fiercely proud of this Berganese tradition - and quick to point out the girl buekorps during the 17 May parade. 

Flag-bearer for a buekorps on 17 May, Bergen, Norway

Flag-bearer for a buekorps on 17 May, Bergen, Norway

My time in Bergen was also spent hiking all seven fjells (mountains) surrounding the city with friends where we experienced breathtaking sunsets on the fjord and quad burning uphills. I also popped up north to see the midnight sun in the Lofoten Islands and was stunned by the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done in my life (see Horseid Beach Hike). Friends from the USA joined me throughout my time in Norway and as I spent time with my family. From learning how to operate my Uncle’s farm equipment (spot the woman with the wild smile in the scooper thing -getting technical here-), to playing soccer with my cousin's women's league team, to slowing down each day with multiple cups of coffee, I find it hard to articulate how much my family's welcoming, loving and relaxed approach to life means to me. Until next time, Norway, jeg elsker deg. 

Trading Russ cards on 17 May, Bergen, Norway

Trading Russ cards on 17 May, Bergen, Norway

17 May, Bergen, Norway

17 May, Bergen, Norway

Damsgårdsfjellet, Bergen, Norway

Damsgårdsfjellet, Bergen, Norway

Sem, Norway

Sem, Norway

Sem, Norway

Sem, Norway

Ågotnes, Norway

Ågotnes, Norway

Ågotnes, Norway

Ågotnes, Norway

Bergen, Norway

Bergen, Norway

Moskenes, Lofoten, Norway

Moskenes, Lofoten, Norway

Hamnøy, Lofoten, Norway

Hamnøy, Lofoten, Norway

Horseid Beach, Kirkefjord, Norway

Horseid Beach, Kirkefjord, Norway

Horseid Beach, Kirkefjord, Norway

Horseid Beach, Kirkefjord, Norway

Kirkefjord, Norway

Kirkefjord, Norway

Midnight sun, Lofoten, Norway

Midnight sun, Lofoten, Norway

Lofoten, Norway

Lofoten, Norway